Because time has a philosophical dimension to it, depending on the sensibility of each individual, the Parisian maison turns it into a reflection of the self, a new thought to be deepened to the rhythm of the hours.

Providing new arguments to stimulate cogitation, to build thought, to philosophize on the inexorable passage of time, is a sweet hobby horse for Cartier. However, with the Reflection watch, the Parisian maison is combining another of its specialties: shapes. This combination not only develops the mind, but also awakens the senses, like a game that links imagination and touch, brain and fingertips.

At Watches and Wonders, in Geneva, a few months ago, the French jeweler-watchmaker presented five fine cuffs that display the time, two versions in colored gold, yellow or rose, and three in white gold lined with diamonds, alone or accompanied by stones in elegant hues (emerald, chrysoprase, turquoise tourmaline, obsidian, opal, spessartite garnets, amethyst and tiger’s eye).

Each of these thick rods freely reinterprets the rigid vocabulary of geometry, offering a body that’s at once full and openworked, angular and rounded, smooth and rough. One end reveals a clear dial with black Roman numerals or covered in brilliants, and a duo of small sword-style hands, while the other is covered with a highly polished surface. Time is thus reflected in this mirror, upsetting landmarks and suggesting that we follow its normal course or, if we’re feeling poetic, rewind it. The Reflection watch measures 18.4 x 17.5mm for a height of 8.9mm and houses a quartz movement that powers the hours and minutes indication.

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Inspired by the first wristwatch designed by the Parisian brand at the request of the famous aviator, this trio of hand-wound timepieces is harmoniously adorned with colors that highlight the dial, bezel and lugs.

To subtly circumvent the popular expression “Three is the magic number”, the Parisian brand is directly adding three new references to the Santos-Dumont  collection, the product range inspired by the first wristwatch designed by Louis Cartier (1875-1942) at the request of the famous Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont (1873-1932). These models, recently presented at Watches and Wonders in Geneva last spring, highlight the profound beauty of colors, especially when they escape from the dial to spill over onto part of the case.

Platinum, rose or yellow gold: these are the three metals chosen to forge the generous dimensions (31.5×43.5mm and 7.3mm thick) of the geometric case framed by a bezel lacquered in olive green, peacock blue and warm grey. These shades, matching the watch’s satin-finish face, are used to band the lugs and dress the alligator leather straps fastened by pin buckles.

In the center, two slender sword-shaped hands display only the essentials of time, the hours and minutes, hovering over the gilded or silvered steel tridimensional curved Arabic numerals and pointing to the white railway timer running discreetly along the flange. The rhythmic round of these indications is brought to life by caliber 430MC, a hand-wound mechanical 3hz movement that delivers an power reserve of nearly 40 hours.

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Revealed at the Watches and Wonders trade show in Geneva, this creation from the Parisian company offers a different vision of the running of time, since its dial scrolls in the opposite direction to the conventional display.

To rewind the thread of time as one would with a ball of wool, to take the chronological scale, and conventions at the same time, against the grain, to make oneself a few years, a few decades younger, is a sweet dream cherished by nostalgic hearts. While Cartier may not hold the secret to the chimerical fountain of youth, its Santos-Dumont Rewind offers a different take on traditional hour and minute hands. Presented at last spring’s Watches and Wonders show in Geneva and limited to 200 pieces, this reference invites you to rethink your bearings and experience time with a different philosophy, thanks to its inverted display.

Indeed, on the dial in carnelian, a glowing chalcedony that symbolizes life on Earth and soothes tormented spirits, the rhodium-plated Roman numerals, framed by a minute track, are placed in counter-clockwise order. The unprecedented permutation also affects the round Breguet-type silvered hands with hollowed knob, installed in the center, jostling the information intake.

Made of platinum, the geometric case of the Santos-Dumont Rewind, measuring 31.5×43.5mm for a thinness of 7.3mm, is curved with a bezel held in place by 8 screws and punctuated by a crown with a cabochon ruby. It houses the 230 MC caliber, an inverted hand-wound movement with a 38-hour power reserve. This new Cartier is worn on the wrist with a mahogany-colored alligator leather strap fastened by a pin buckle.

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Both technical and aerial, like the flying machine that carried the famous aviation pioneer into the air, the new watch from the Parisian company comes in three spectacular versions.

Free as a bird with outstretched wings, letting the zephyr carry him along, aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont (1873-1932) discovered the world from the sky aboard his flying machine, the Demoiselle, a single-seater he designed in 1907. He ordered a wristwatch from Louis Cartier (1875-1942), so he could tell the time while flying. The result is a contemporary collection, named after the Franco-Brazilian engineer, and featuring three new references: the Santos-Dumont Squelette, available in yellow gold, rose gold or steel.

Like a warm, stylized sun radiating its graphic navy-lacquered rays, the face of the watch lets the light pass through and caress the miniature reproduction of the Demoiselle flying over a silvered half-globe, a poetic and original interpretation of the micro-rotor. In the center, two sword-shaped blued steel hands display the hours and minutes under the cadence of caliber 9629 MC, a self-winding mechanical movement that took two years to develop. Paced at the gentle frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour, it delivers nearly two days of power reserve. The large Santos-Dumont Squelette‘s square case with its softened angles imposes generous dimensions (43x31mm), and is accompanied by a screwed bezel and a circular-grained crown punctuated by a blue cabochon. Wrapped in lacquer in the colors of the ocean, it is firmly anchored to the wrist by an ultramarine alligator leather strap and yellow gold pin buckle.

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With this watch that is worn like a jewel, this precious bracelet that tells the time, the Parisian maison plays with shapes, colors, materials and finishes to offer time a setting that is as original as it is fascinating.

Time holds, in spite of itself, in spite of us and our frantic daily life, a playful dimension. The relationship we have with it is flexible, elastic, modular, like an abstract modeling clay. It plays with us, defies us, lengthens the seconds, shortens the hours, makes the years quickly go by. From this playful spirit was born the Clash [Un]limited, a jewel-watch designed by Cartier. For the Parisian maison, time is revealed in a harmonious stacking of shapes, like a child’s construction game where pyramids and marbles stand side by side, and colors, materials and finishes. The senses are awakened, amazed by this almost unusual object, this precious bracelet that tells the time, this watch that hides under a structure as complex as it is alive.

Presented at Watches and Wonders 2023 in Geneva, the Clash [Un]limited series is based on five references, divided into three categories, from the “simplest” if we dare say to the most jewel-like, all equipped with a case measuring 18.4×32.7mm and 8mm thick and driven by a quartz movement. In the first group, the dial is dressed in a silver sunray finish while the bracelet with its atypical silhouette combines pink or yellow gold with violet gold, this exclusive alloy tinted with mauve accents. Then in the second, it is white gold that sees its angular links and two out of three pearls covered with diamonds. Finally, the last group brings together two exceptional pieces, one featuring contrasts between black and white with the presence of diamonds, spinels and obsidian, and the other embodying an explosion of colors by combining spinels, tsavorites, coral and chrysoprase.

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With its movement nestled in an oscillating weight, this work of haute horlogerie imagined by the Parisian house is without a doubt one of the most beautiful pieces presented this year.

It was more than a century ago, in 1912 to be precise, that Cartier unveiled its first mysterious clocks. As enigmatic as they were fascinating, with their hands that seemed to float in the air without any restraint, over time these pieces have seen their movements miniaturized to be encased in wristwatches. The Parisian company is reviving this watchmaking spectacle, for which it alone holds the secret, by presenting Masse Mystérieuse, a limited edition of 30 pieces and undoubtedly one of the most beautiful models presented this year.

Modern dance or contemporary ballet, time is displayed in motion, the hours are aerial, the minutes twirling, indicated by a set of central sword-like hands attached to a differential system that cadences their regular rhythm without being affected by the irregular swing of the oscillating weight. It is within the latter, recognizable thanks to its wide fan shape, that the caliber 9801 MC nestles. This self-winding manufacture skeleton movement, which vibrates at 4 hours, provides 42 hours of power reserve and integrates a bidirectional rotor, required 8 years of development before being able to offer this unheard of moving picture. The 950 platinum case, 43.5mm in diameter and 12.64mm thick, which is also available in a version lined with baguette-cut diamonds, is worn on a matte alligator leather strap in anthracite gray or black.

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Break away from traditional conventions. In other words, the strong point of the sporty variation of this watchmaking icon, perfectly at ease in the heat of action and in society events!

A sort of carefree liberty and stylistic audacity underscores the 1980s, wonderfully illustrated through Cartier’s Pasha watch. Since then, this model has forever been in tune with its times. For example, its Seatimer version, unveiled back in 2006, boasts all the must-haves of a real sports model, with elegance as well. This timepiece invites the wearer to measure short-cycle time and to be carried along during underwater excursions in particular thanks to its graduated rotating bezel which ensures the adventurer dives to depths safely. The Pasha Chronograph 2021 reproduces its features yet proposes an alternative to the classical esthetics of this type of complication.

On the pared-down dial, a perfectly-accurate minute tracker encircles tri-compax-positioned counters. Discreet diagonals and a sketched square-shape, already present on the original model, join in a graphical scenography where an XL-sized 12 reigns supreme. The crown and the pushers also play a key role in enhancing its offbeat character. All are topped with a blue cabochon. One of Cartier’s well-known signatures!

Two variations are available. One combines a 41 mm-diameter steel case with a bracelet fashioned in the same material. The other blends together a yellow gold case with a brown leather strap. Both house the selfwinding 1904-CH MC movement, discovered in 2013 in the Calibre de Cartier collection. This instrument, designed to ensure perfect chronometric stability, delivers a power reserve of two days. Once again, the Pasha Chronograph is tailored to the times with its integrated QuickSwitch system which enables the wearer to change straps in an instant.

Price: CHF9,150 (steel) – CHF22,800 (yellow gold)

By Dan Diaconu

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The Parisien house enhances the refined personality of this timepiece, imagined back in 1904 by Louis Cartier for his Brazilian aviator friend, by gifting it with more contemporary proportions.

Timelessness. Seldom has a watch exemplified this qualifier so well. And, even though it’s over a century old, the Santos Dumont is as fresh as ever. This year however, Cartier has quite aptly revisited its lines and size to bring it up-to-date. As such the Santos Dumont XL stands out with its 46.6 mm x 33.9 mm rectangular case, its satin-brushed finish and its slimness as it’s only 7.5 mm thick. Its profile’s curvature is now even more elegant. These new proportions offer the dial the opportunity to boost its clearness and readability optimally. It goes without saying that the piece still embraces the manufacture’s stylistic codes, with ah hour chapter comprising Roman numerals and blued sword-shaped hands, yet the rather-more graphical composition is amplified.

Three versions are available. One is steel, another in rose gold and the third combining these two materials. Whatever variation you choose, all three models are driven by the hand-wound 430 MC caliber. Once fully wound, this movement delivers a power reserve of some 38 hours. Time is set and the watch is wound using the traditional circular-grained crown topped with a sapphire or synthetic spinel cabochon based on the model chosen.

The Santos Dumont XL is worn on a perfectly-integrated strap in blue, gray or black alligator depending on the case metal color. All versions are equipped with a quick-release system for easily changing the strap.

Price: EUR5,500 (steel) – EUR7,800 (steel and rose gold) – EUR15,000 (rose gold)

By Dan Diaconu

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Since it was created back in 1917, the watch designed by Louis Cartier has constantly reinvented itself. One of its most original variations is back in the limelight in a chic, refined limited edition.

The 1936-unveiled Tank Asymétrique shook up the icon’s signature design by showcasing two horizontal brancards linked by two oblique-shaped bars and featuring numerals off-set 30° to the right. For the 2020 vintage, the Arabic numerals which replace the more traditional Roman-style typography and indexes have been redesigned. Cartier proposes the watch in three versions, each style produced in just 100 pieces. The first combines a rose gold case and gray dial, the second embraces yellow gold and an elegant Champagne shade whilst the third takes on a platinum case and silver-colored dial. A special strap was also created to espouse the case parallelogram to perfection (47.15 x 26.2 mm).

The 1917 MC caliber nestles at the very heart of this incredibly-fine 6.38 mm-thick case. This hand-wound mechanical movement offers a power reserve of some 38 hours once the watch is fully wound via the crown set with a sapphire or ruby cabochon depending on the version.

Holding true to its great tradition to empower design with state-of-the-art technique, Cartier revealed two other variations, each also issued in just 100 pieces, one in rose gold, the other in platinum, equipped with a 9623 MC skeletonized movement. The numerals 12 and 6 represent the cardinal points of this openworked architecture. The blued hands hover over indexes coated with the same color and forged in the actual caliber structure itself. All these models are complemented by alligator straps, available in blue, black, gray or brown based on the case material.

Price on request

By Dan Diaconu

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With this new chronograph, one of the stars of the recent SIHH, the brand has brought extra soul to a great watchmaking classic. We take a closer look.

Making a fresh start. This is the aim of the Cartier Santos Chronograph. Although the watch has the same basic DNA as the original model, it still stands apart from the previous versions through technical innovations that influence the final design. So out go the two monopushers to be seen, for example, on the Santos 100. And in comes a simpler outline with the presence of a column wheel chronograph mechanism to measure split times, with a pusher at 9 o’clock that is perfectly incorporated into the watch case. A light press on the button launches the central second hand. Another press stops the clock. To reset to zero, you just need to press the crown at 3 o’clock. On the dial, the time information is displayed in the traditional way. The sword-shaped hands move around a minute track featuring Roman numerals, including a VII with the brand’s secret signature. A small second hand at 9 o’clock is used to check the calibre is working correctly. The two counters at 3 and 6 o’clock tot up the minutes and hours, respectively. Lastly, the date is shown in a counter at 6 o’clock.

In a rounded case (43.3 x 51.3mm), available in rose gold, a combination of steel and yellow gold or a blend of steel and ADLC, an automatic movement, the calibre 1904-CH MC, drives the watch features and provides 48 hours of power reserve once fully wound.

The Santos Chronograph comes with a new system of interchangeable straps known as QuickSwitch. Whether you prefer steel, alligator leather or rubber, you can dress your wrist quickly and easily and match the strap to your style.

Price from €7,200 (steel)

By Dan Diaconu

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Made from a mosaic of miniature paintings on mother-of-pearl and diamond tiles, the animal symbolising Parisian nightlife takes on a new, intense and mysterious face when night falls.

The panther has been the Cartier emblem since the 1930s. It often appears on the dials of the Parisian brand’s watches and even has a collection named after it. Once again this year at the SIHH, Cartier showed off all its creative power by introducing a range of different timepieces, including the Ronde Cartier Regard de Panthère, a model with two different faces. As its French name suggests, the watch gives pride of place to a panther, the brand’s favourite feline.

The limited edition of just 30 pieces features the head of the fabulous animal on its dial. The big cat seems to lurk behind a curtain of tall grass, with its gaze fixed on its future prey. The dial has a chequerboard pattern decorated with miniature painting. The mosaic includes small mother-of-pearl tiles and a handful of diamonds, echoing the gems on the bezel and the pearled crown. The panther’s unsettling gaze is coated with Super-LumiNova®. So when night falls over the savannah and the watch is plunged in darkness, the black cat turns into a fearsome predator with only its almond-shaped eyes shining in the night.

On the upper part of the panther’s face, between its eyes, are two Breguet-style, gilded steel hands with “moon” tips. They discreetly display the hours and minutes, and are driven by the automatic calibre 1847 MC. It provides 40 hours of power reserve and is housed in a 36mm-wide yellow gold case.

The Ronde Cartier Regard de Panthère is worn either with a gloss black alligator leather strap with large scales or a semi-matt brown strap with a yellow gold folding buckle.

Price on request

By Sharmila Bertin

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The recent SIHH in Geneva brought several gems to light. One is definitely this Santos-Dumont watch, keeping alive the refined spirt of the original model.

The name Santos-Dumont evokes the early history of aviation in the 20th century, but has also been closely linked to watchmaking since Louis Cartier created a wrist watch for his Brazilian friend in 1904. The Santos model was sold to the public from 1911, and later the Parisian luxury brand made it a collection in its own right. This year, Cartier has given new wings to the historic timepiece named after the intrepid aviator. The style of the new models is impeccable and true to the original. The case combines simplicity and distinction, and is made of steel, gold or both materials to suit all tastes.

Here you can find all the notable design elements of Cartier watches. Visible screws are in evidence at the the top of the case. On the dial, blued hands point towards Roman numerals, and the winding crown features a blue cabochon. The secret signature in the figure VII has not been forgotten. Two sizes of case are available. There is a smaller version (38.5mm wide) or a larger model, so that the watches can be worn either by men or women.

The Santos-Dumont by Cartier is also surprisingly slender, just 7mm thick. This is because the watch houses a quartz movement and not a mechanical calibre. The movement includes the latest innovations in terms of energy saving. As a result, the watch owner will only have to change the battery every six years. All the models are equipped with elegant alligator-leather straps.

Price from €3,500

By Dan Diaconu

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