With a steel body, a face tinted with rather classic colors and a relaxed allure, the ambassadress of the Geneva-based brand is offered in four different diameters so that every wrist can find the watch that’s just right for it.

With its rather sporty aesthetic based on the diving watches produced by Tudor in the 1950s, from which it retains certain codes such as the famous “snowflake” hand and geometric hour markers, the Black Bay collection is a real success story. Building on its reputation, the range continues to expand and now embraces a new look. Indeed, the Geneva-based brand’s flagship watch boasts a toned-down silhouette punctuated by a slim polished bezel, a face dressed in a palette of four timeless colors and a steel body available in four different sizes to suit a wide range of wrists.

Few watchmakers offer such a choice when launching a new model: 31, 36, 39 or 41mm in diameter, and blue, anthracite or “champagne” – a vintage style silver with delicate gold reflections – for the satin-smooth, sunray-colored dial, with hour-markers that can be set with diamonds, depending on the model chosen.

The central display of hours, minutes and seconds is driven by four self-winding movements (MT5201, MT5400, MT5602 and MT5601), each corresponding to a different case size, and all designed by Tudor in its Le Locle factory inaugurated in 2021 and COSC-certified chronometers. Only the MT5201 caliber equipping the 31mm version delivers 50 hours of power reserve, the other three providing 70 hours. Each piece in this BlackBay series is worn with a five-row steel bracelet fitted with a T-fit clasp that allows the watch to be adjusted to an 8mm length, optimizing its comfort on the wrist.

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A material that’s rarely used in contemporary watchmaking creations and an up-to-the-minute color taken from the Pantone color chart gift this timepiece with a sporty, elegant character.

Irrespective of the adornments and sizes it has embraced since it was first unveiled back in 2012, every new version of one of the Tudor dive watches sparks interest and fires enthusiasm. The new Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is no exception to the rule. Its 39 mm case, waterproof to depths of 200 meters, and its crown take on an intriguing silvery hue boasting a satin-brushed matte finish. For this model, the rose-logoed brand set aside steel to craft with an alloy comprising 92.5% silver. A first-ever! This option offers the case dazzle infused with rare intensity. And, the result? Its aluminum bezel and its grained-finished domed dial, both boasting taupe, in contrast, really impress. The indexes and the can’t-do-without snowflake-style hands coated with luminescent paint also stand out perfectly and offer optimal readability under any conditions of light, be it on land or, if the occasion arises, during an underwater adventure.

Like the other references in the collection, this diver is driven by an in-house caliber, this time round, the MT5400. This bidirectional selfwinding movement delivers the watch autonomy of 70 hours. Moreover, its chronometric accuracy is COSC-certified (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute). The existence of a stop-seconds device ensures time is always set precisely.

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is complemented by a brown leather strap or a fabric one in the same color as the dial. Both are clasped by an ardillon buckle.

Price: CHF4,100

By Dan Diaconu

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Tudor’s new creation, worthy successor to a long tradition of dive watches from which it borrows certain features, imposes its somewhat vintage style and strong personality infused with a touch of blue.

In 1954, Tudor followed the route which Rolex had paved a few years before and joined in the waterproofness quest by unveiling a watch able to deal with immersions down to depths of 100 m, then 200 m in 1958. These pieces gave birth to a long line of renowned dive watches including some which were adopted by the French National Navy and the US Navy. Almost 70 years later, the Geneva-based brand rolls out its Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”, a model whose style and color are inspired by its elder siblings and whose name is directly linked to the ’58 model.

Although current Black Bay pieces measure 41 mm diameter, this steel-crafted newcomer tends more so to dimensions of the 50s with its 39 mm size which suits any wrist perfectly well. The case is topped with a rotating bezel which is crowned with a matt blue aluminum ring matching the cambered dial. The dial hosts the famous snowflake hands in the centre which tick over the hours and seconds and a baton-style one for the minutes. Everything is coated with white luminescent material, including the geometric markers.

Essential time data comes to life driven by the manufacture MT5402 caliber, an automatic movement with rotor which beats at a standard frequency of 4 Hz and offers a power reserve of 70 hours.

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue” is worn on a steel link bracelet, on a soft-touch textile strap or on a navy blue woven NATO with gray central strip.

Price: CHF3,200 (soft-touch or NATO) – CHF3,500 (steel bracelet)

By Sharmila Bertin

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Tudor is taking full advantage of the Rugby World Cup which is currently taking place in Japan to launch a chronograph in the color of the famous New Zealand’s team jersey.

As partner of New Zealand’s national rugby team, Tudor is proposing to rugby fans a limited edition of its Black Bay Chrono model completely decked out in the renowned color of the All Blacks. The 41 mm steel case is finished with a black PVD-treated coating (Physical Vapor Deposition) and a satin-brushed finish. This color is also used on the dial, the pushers, the crown and on the steel bracelet complete with a folding buckle.

In this monochrome setting, the hour and minute hands point to the round index markers and stand out perfectly thanks to their brilliant white color. The time information is therefore very easy to read. The measurement of time lapses is displayed in a classic format using the central second hand and the 45-minute counter positioned at 3 o’clock. There is a date window at 6 o’clock. All the information is powered by the MT5813 caliber and its chronometer precision is certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute). This self-winding bidirectional movement offers a power reserve of 70 hours.

Only 1,181 pieces of the Black Bay Chrono Dark are available. This figure corresponds to the number of players who have worn the jersey with the silver fern since the creation of the team in 1884 and it will grow as players are selected on the pitch during the World Cup. The engraving on the case back specifies the number of each timepiece.

Price: 5,590 EUR

By Dan Diaconu

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Summing up the history of a brand in a single watch – this is the challenge taken up by Tudor with a model combining a timeless look and a modern, efficient mechanism.

Tudor is again inviting us to take a journey into the brand’s past. Yet, the story is not well known. The Black Bay P01 is not a reissue of a famous watch, but concludes a project that remained on the drawing board for 50 years. From the mid-1950s, the brand had been supplying the US Navy with diving watches. The authorities commissioned a new watch, and a prototype was developed in line with their specifications. But finally Navy chiefs opted for the standard model from the Swiss brand’s catalogue. Yet, the prototype had plenty of assets. And they have been incorporated in a new way on the P01. The angular “snowflake“ hands and lume-coated indices stand out clearly against the black dial. This contrasting composition is encircled by a wide, bidirectional revolving bezel. To prevent it from being moved by mistake, the bezel comes with an original stop system. The system is housed at 12 o’clock. You raise a “hood” to move the bezel, then lower it back into place to block the bezel.

The calibre MT5612, on other hand, is highly contemporary. The automatic movement comes with a silicon spiral, so that the watch is unaffected by magnetic fields. The modern structure includes a bi-directional rotor, providing 70 hours of power reserve. An off-centred crown together with a stop-second feature are used to set the precise time.

The P01 is certified as a chronometer by the COSC. It is protected by a 42mm-wide steel case and is water-resistant down to 200m. The leather and rubber strap makes for a comfortable wearing experience.

Price: 3,750 CHF

By Dan Diaconu

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